Small – medium – large

The Danish Bonsai Society – and the local group mainly – did an exhibition over the past weekend. I visited and found some very nice displays. Autumn time is a great time to display especially Shohin that can express the seasons through different species. Also some good deciduous trees was shown. Trees ranged from shohin to large bonsai. But we seldom see the really huge trees around in Denmark.


Enjoying bonsai before the rain

Heavy rain showers are announced, so I set up the daily display without using scroll or tables. Just protect these from the weather later. Sun is still shining, so it is about enjoying before we will be inside the house mostly the next days.






Cotoneaster shohin favourites

The Cotoneaster is among my all time favourites for shohin-bonsai. especially for Mame-bonsai (from 9,5 cm and down), because it is slightly draught tolerant, and can develop a fine root system for the extremely small pots used.


Cotoneaster × suecicus ‘Coral Beauty’ is one of the varieties among the Cotoneaster specimens that are particularly good for Shohin bonsai. It is a summer flowering specimen, and therefore it sets its flower buds during spring. If you want flowers, you should not prune after the dormant period in winter, when leaves have dropped.


Other (but fewer) varieties are evergreens, as it is the case with the Cotoneaster microphylla. As other types of Cotoneaster it has white flowers followed by red or orange fruits in autumn. C. microphylla is a spring flowering specimen, and therefore it is necessary to stop pruning before fall, when the flower buds for spring are produced. If pruned in autumn/fall, you risk pruning away the small flower buds that are prepared for spring.

Cotoneasters are very tolerant regarding soil types and watering. They also willingly produce a massive amount of new growth when pruned hard. As long as they are fed well and taken care of, this the tree every shohin grower should have in their collection, if the specimen is available in your location. They are found in nature from western China towards Northern Europe.


In midd-summer it is advisable to keep the pot and tree semi shaded during the hot part of the day, were the sun will heat up the soil and roots. In winter keep the tree from freezing in several days, and place it protected from winds (best choice is a greenhouse) because the leaves still will be evaporating trough the leaves, especially if exposed for the sun. Leaves and branches will dry out when the soil is frozen and cant take up water for evaporation.





4 of top 5 bonsai

May I present: The Juniper. Which is the fourth bonsai I have added to this fun personal top 5 list of favourite bonsai. I could easily have made a top ten list, but we keep it at five.

Huniperus Shimpaku named "Kato". Bought as prebonsai at the famous Mansei-en bonsai nursery in Omiya, Japan.
Juniperus Shimpaku named “Kato”. Bought as prebonsai at the famous Mansei-en bonsai nursery in Omiya, Japan.

Junipers are without doubt one of the most popular specimens all over the bonsai world. Its qualities as a dramatic, powerful and elegant tree is without competition. The fresh green foliage arranged in dense foliage pads contrasting twisting deadwood and a elegant live veins curving is well known to many bonsai enthusiasts.

Angyo, Kawagachi in Japan. Rows of Shimpaku Junipers ready to be sold.
Angyo, Kawagachi in Japan. Rows of Shimpaku Junipers ready to be sold.

As Shohin it is excellent, getting it to thrive even as a small mame bonsai. A bit difficult to find good material around for decent money in the large scale, but if you have a go with Shohin it is possible to make something from raw nursery material. Pests are rare when it comes to the Shimpaku and Juniperus chinensis varieties, but needle Junipers can be attacked by fungus that goes into the trunk and branches, and leaving a orange slime fungus appearing in spring. It doesn’t harm the life of the tree, but i will make bulk not desirable at the point where the fungus lives.

The foliage pads on the Shimpaku and J. chinensis have to be treated carefully. Do not pinch new growth regularly, but cut at a lower point when growth is too strong, and only remove new growth by cutting below the soft foliage. Else the foliage and tree will weaken.

I personally do not prefer the needy cleaned, brushed and oiled bark, that is a fashion with especially Shimpaku junipers. Like the yew, I prefer old matured bark that look a bit more greyish but have the natural appearance and aged expression. Disadvantages only come to the lacking of healing over wounds from removal of larger branches. These wounds have to be hidden at the backside, or treated as natural deadwood in the design.

Junipers are among the most wide-spread bonsai specimens, and therefore there also is a risk of getting tired of seeing the same uniform styles mass produced. There are some varieties very good for bonsai. To mention a few is the Shimpaku and J. chinensis as they are fairly easy to grow, and have dense foliage by nature. The Shimpaku with darker green needles and a bit more compact growth than chinensis. Other varieties are some needle Junipers as J. communis and J. procumbens that also can be successfully grown as bonsai.

Very small Mame-bonsai Shimpaku at the nursery of Tomohiro Masumi, Koju-en, Kyoto, japan.
Very small Mame-bonsai Shimpaku at the nursery of Tomohiro Masumi, Koju-en, Kyoto, Japan.